Basic Trumpet Care

Knowing how to care for your instrument is part of being a good musician.  This article will cover some basic aspects of everyday trumpet care.  Many students are mistaken about how to take care of their trumpet.  I think a lot of beginning trumpet students aren't really taught about trumpet maintenance.  Or, if they are taught, it's covered quickly in one day and never talked about again. 

 

The parts of the trumpet

Let’s start with a diagram of the trumpet.  Below is a photo of my trumpet with various parts labeled.  Different makes of trumpets vary slightly in their appearance, but they have the same basic parts.  I haven't labeled every single part -- I've just labeled things that we're likely to talk about when dealing with trumpet care. 

 

A trumpet with select part names.  Click to enlarge.

 

The Valves

The valves are the most fragile and complex part of the trumpet.  They should be handled carefully and should be kept in good working order.  

The anatomy of the piston valve.  Click to enlarge.

Take a look at the diagram to the right. Familiarize yourself with the parts of the valve.  It's very important that you know which part to oil and clean, and which part not to.

 

Oiling The Valves

Do you know which part of the valve should be oiled and how to do it?  I've found that many of my students are mistaken about this!

The oil only goes on the bottom piston part of the valves where the round holes are.  Apply the valve oil to the smooth surface of this lower part of the valve, not inside the holes.  There should be a thin layer of oil covering this entire smooth surface. 

To apply the oil, it's most effective to unscrew the top valve cap and to take the valve half-way or all the way out of the valve casing.  I apply the oil a drop at a time to different sides of the piston surface so that the oil is spread all over in a thin layer.  Don't put so much oil on the valve that it is dripping off!  

After putting several drops of oil on different sides of the piston, put the valve back into the casing, screw on the cap, and move the valve up and down several times.  This will help to distribute the oil from the top of the valve to the bottom.  

Valves should be oiled as needed.  The amount of time that should pass between one oiling and the next varies based on the age and make of your trumpet, how much time you spend playing it, and what type of oil you use. 

Some students have mentioned oiling their valves through the vent hole in the bottom valve cap.  This is a bad idea.  Little bits of dirt tend to collect in the bottom valve caps.  Turning the trumpet upside down and squirting oil into the vents encourages this dirt to move back up into the valve casing and onto the valves, making them stick more.  Furthermore, this just isn't a very effective way to oil your valves.  When you oil them from the top, gravity helps to distribute the oil evenly.  When you oil from the bottom, you would need to leave your trumpet upside down for quite some time in order for the oil to get distributed evenly.  

Keep in mind that not all brands of valve oil are created equal.  Check out the kinds that I listed in Recommended Products and consider trying one of those brands.  Talk to me about what to get if you're not sure.  

 

Mouthpiece care

The mouthpiece should be cleaned once a week for both health reasons and playability reasons.  

Try this: take your mouthpiece out, hold it up to the light, and look inside it.  If you see little chunks of stuff on the sides, then your mouthpiece is overdue for a cleaning!   

I clean mine by running it under warm tap water and brushing out the inside with a mouthpiece brush.  I sometimes use a drop of dishwashing soap.  I also clean the outer parts of the mouthpiece using my fingers or a non-abrasive dishwashing sponge.

 

Lubricating The Slides

All of the slides on your trumpet should be oiled or greased with some kind of lubricant that is specifically for trumpet slides.  (Refer to Recommended Products for ideas about what to get.) Use a thicker lubricant for the tuning slide and the second valve slide.  Use a thinner lubricant for the first and third slide.  If your slides don’t move easily or if your slides are dry, then it’s time to apply some lubricant.  

 

Caring for the Finish of The Horn

It’s a good idea to wipe off your trumpet after every use.  This slows the corrosion caused by the oils in your hands and other factors in the environment.  I have both a microfiber cloth and a treated polishing cloth in my case.  Either one can be used for this purpose.  

I don't advocate the use of leather guards that attach around the valve casings.  These are meant to protect the silver plating. I find, however, that they usually just trap dirt and grime under them.  

On a similar note, I don't advocate the use of "grime gutters," which are sometimes included with the purchase of a trumpet.  These tend to trap dirt.  They also tend to be made from materials that can eventually leave permanent black marks on the finish of a trumpet.  Some students have mentioned that it protects their clothing and hands from oil that seeps out through the vent hole in the bottom valve cap.  The best way to prevent this is by oiling your valves properly. If oil is coming out through the vent hole, it's a sign that you're using too much oil or that you're applying the oil incorrectly.  

 

Knowing When It's Time To Visit the Repair Shop

Every trumpeter needs to visit the repair shop at some point, whether it's for a yearly cleaning or because an accident caused some damage to the trumpet. 

Here are some common problems I've seen in lessons that warrant a trip to the shop:

  • Your trumpet hasn't been cleaned professionally in more than two years (this should be done yearly)
  • There is a noticeable dent in the lead pipe, the tuning crook, or the bell bow (note that any dent affects the playability of a trumpet)
  • The cork on your spit valve has worn away
  • You cleaned and greased/oiled one of your slides and it still won't move in and out easily
  • You cleaned and oiled your valves but one or more of them is still sticky
  • Your third valve slide is missing the stop rod or stop nut